You make a tractor related comment and it's not very accurate either. As other posts have mentioned, years ago all the farming was done with smaller tractors. The only advantage to bigger tractors is that you can get more done in less time. Some implements need a larger tractor to run them but for a chore tractor, a smaller tractor can do things that wouldn't be possible with a larger tractor. Working in tight spaces is one example. As far as recommending a tractor, For a smaller acreage like 10 or 20 acres a 35 to 60 HP is generally considered an ideal size depending on what you actually use it for. I would always recommend an MF 135 because I have one and know what it's capable of and can vouch for it's reliability and dependability. For 10 acres and under a 135 would still be a good tractor but if all you need a tractor for is some light mowing or clearing snow, a tractor like an 8N would work fine. An 8N doesn't have all the bells and whistles of a newer tractor but for the money, they'll do circles around a garden tractor. We used to have an 8N and it was a very good tractor but didn't have quite enough power to run a flail mower in heavy grass. That's why the 135 replaced it. Our 8N pulled a 6 1/2 cultivator or disc just fine and went through snow better than the 135. Dave
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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