The inner bearings on this machine are oil lube from the case. The outers are grease lubricated and sealed FROM the inners. The way these are set up, twine never gets at the seal. The seal is actually fastened to the shaft and the wear liner is fixed to the axle housing. It's just a matter of not getting enough lube... then the outer bearing starts getting slack, then the minimal preload is gone... and when that's gone a tapered bearing is not long for the world. From speaking with the dealer pars manager... I seem to be the only one who has these problems. I'm about the only one that ever needs axle repair kits anyhow as he doesn't move enough of them to bother stocking them... I've often toyed with putting grease tubes on so I don't have to pull the wheels to grease the bearings but always worried about the chains ripping the tubes off. Catch 22...
Re: Frame cracks. I've seen cracking in the first gen booms on the 'old' L series machines. The Lx series had a vastly heavier boom with a better design. Granted I haven't looked at a lot of any of them, I haven't seen any cracking in the Lx or the LS yet. Certainly mine has no cracks... and if there was one that should crack, this would be the one. I would tend to think that this boom will probably outlast a lot of others because it has quite large bearing points on all of it's pivots. There's a lot of area to wear. Conventional booms have smaller pin areas that can wear more quickly. I used to worry about all the moving parts in this boom, but aside from the bucket/adapter plate the main boom is as tight today as it ever was... It's certainly got far less wear in 4000 hours than the very conventional loader arms on our loader tractor... with the same hours. The tractor loader has had just about every buching rewelded back into the arms, the arms welded several times, etc. So I'm not terribly sold on 'conventional' loader arms any more.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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