Posted by B-maniac on December 28, 2009 at 09:35:52 from (207.241.137.116):
In Reply to: Re: DIY rustproofing posted by Riot 14 on December 28, 2009 at 08:53:46:
The warrantees I read say " aftermarket undercoating may void warrantee only if it contributed to premature rust out as in the case of plugged up drain holes etc". Also most warrantees are for "rust out" or "perforation" only. that means if it aint a hole through then it's considered "surface rust" and they will tell you it is from lack of proper maintenance (cleaning) and won't cover it. Where I see the biggest problem with most vehicles is the bottom door seams where outer skin is lapped around and over inner door. These aren't seam sealed any more and when you slam a door it does cause these two seperate panels to "move" on aech other and it not only cracks the paint/primer but also cracks loose the galvanizing and then the salt/dust catches in the lip and eats away at newly exposed metal and gets in between the two layers and by the time you see it , it has rusted long enough to bulge the two apart and when you sand blast it a lot of it just dissinegrates. Undercoating from the inside only helps with half the problem. I know it is a little unsightly but you must seal this seam/ledge with silicone or some other flexible sealer the day you buy the vehicle new! This area starts cracking the first time you slam the doors! You just won't see it until it's too late Certain doors will rust on the bottom seam first in the exact area where the door lift robot at the factory grabs on to the bottom seam. This thin metal flexes more than anyone thinks and just because you can't see it doesn't mean the coatings havn't cracked. Have you noticed the driver's door is usually the worst? Has nothing to do with more salt in the center of the road either. Salt gets everywhere. As long as it finds no bare metal it hurts nothing. Have been repairing and observing these problems for over 35 yrs and there's a pattern to it. Never thought we would still have the problem with 2 sided galvanizing but if the coating flakes off and exposes bare steel because of expansion/contraction and/or viberation then you have problens. No matter how new your car/truck is , lift up that rubber waether seal along the bottom inside of you doors and clean and check it thoroughly. Even if you have to use a magnifying glass. If it is 2 yrs old you may only see stress cracks but 4+ yrs you are liable to allready see "spider webbing" under the paint. That's just the prelude. Get it taken care of now. I am from the salt/rust belt of the country , if you are from a state that doesn't use salt , EVEN in the summer for dust control , then you may be safe. Do you ever drive to a state that ever uses it? Only takes one trip through and you've got it. If you live close to an ocean you have it everywhere. Bottom line is , you can seal up everything but if you use it eventually it will crack somewhere . View it as maintenance and watch and check once in a while. Once you see the "big brown" it's too late!
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