Built a 50'X48' building with 6" slab, and in-floor heat, and supplemental forced air furnace, with Plastic "zip strips" in floor for stress cracking. I use straight water in system, as Glycol mixture reduces heat transfer to concrete dramatically, resulting in a bigger boiler being needed. You NEVER CUT or DRILL into finished floor with tubing in floor. If you are only going to "ocasionally" heat building to comfortable Temps., then you will want a glycol mixture in system. You will have to turn heat on at least 2-3 days ahead of time. I would recommend running floor heat w/o glycol, at min. temp all winter, and adding supplemental forced air units for quicker recovery for comfortable temps when needed.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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