Bob, I've never saw the PEX placed beneath the concrete around here - not saying you're wrong, but I see no need to heat the sand/soil/gravel beneath the floor. We have only done two floors, so no expert. We compacted the CA-6 real good with a heavy turtle, spread out visquine, laid one inch blue board, fabric sheets on white brick, then zip-tied the PEX to the pavement fabric. Chairs don't do too good on the foam board unless you use sand plates, so bricks were our choice. No joints in the entire floor - both floors 30X50. The "no joints" concept goes against everything I've ever done in a lifetime in concrete. Both floors - no visible cracks - but I know they're there. All floors crack. It seems that the PEX is very forgiving and would stand a certain amount of cracking on a firmly compacted subgrade. If it gets kinked, you can carefully pass a propane torch over it and it will "heal" itself. Best way to avoid kinking/laydown problems with the PEX is to use a modified high tensile fence wire spinner. We chose the heavier pavement fabric sheets over the thinner roll mesh, and also made a greater than normal effort on the subgrade compaction in hopes of no vertical slab movement. We're very happy with the finished product.
Bob, I have a feeling you already know all of this and more. Just describing how we did it in our area.
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Jerry D. Coleman. How many of you can sit there and say that you have plowed with a mule? Well I would say not many, but maybe a few. This story is about the day my Grandfather Brown (true name) decided along with my parents to purchase a new Ford tractor. It wasn't really new except to us. The year was about 1967 and my father found a good used Ford 601 tractor to use on the farm instead of "Bob", our old mule. Now my grandfather had had this mule since the mid 40's and he was getting some age on him. S
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