It won't go poof because neither the pos or neg of the 24v leads are attached to the frame. They both terminate at the starter. On on the solenoid, the other at a special terminal on the starter itself. To get 12v to run lights, fuel gauge, and other accessories you need to center tap the batteries to a chassis ground.
Look at JohnT's schematic, one battery lead is attached to the solenoid, the other is attached toward the top of the starter to a special terminal. This terminal is isolated from the chassis and is connected directly to the windings of the starter.
The generator is a split 24v also. The 24v splits into 12+ and 12- with a center chassis ground. So each batt gets its own 12v and gets charged individually. This balances the batts so one doesn't cook while the other is still under charged.
On my 4020 half of the lights are powered by 12+ and the other 12- (there are two power terminals on the switch)this also helps balance the system
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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