If the stove calls for 6" I'd use that, too big and it won't draft properly. I put a woodstove in our living room last year with an installation similar to what you describe. Buy the recommended flue, wall thimble, and chimney and you'll be fine. The flue and chimney sections are joined with the small end down, that way any creosote stays inside instead of leaking out as it would if you have the larger end facing down. The stove added $100 to our fire insurance but saves several times that in heating oil.
The horizontal run you describe doesn't sound right, keep that as short as you can. I put a heat shield made of concrete backer board covered with tile on the wall behind the stove, mounted so it stands off from the wall by about 1" so air can flow around it. It gets warm but the wall behind stays cold to the touch.
I used single wall flue inside (it radiates a lot of heat), the thimble is triple wall, and the chimney is double wall; neither the thimble nor the chimney have any insulation. Thimble works amazingly well, the outer shield never even gets warm. I had the chimney cleaned last summer, the sweep said there was a small amount of creosote near the top, he suggested we build a hot fire at least once a week to cook it off.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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