How long are you running the tractor after you start it? Hyds. will be slow with cold oil but condensation shouldn't be enough to freeze the control levers. If the tractor is only run for short periods of time and light loads, it might not be enough to fully warm the hyd. oil and controls. It could just be that the control lever froze on its own. Being outside in the cold and then parked in a warm garage will cause condensation. That's why a lot places that do snow removal leave their machines outside and use block heaters etc. on them. Also, if there's condensation in the oil and the oil never gets warm enough, how is the small amount of condensation going to get wicked out? Especially when the oil would never even touch your wick device? All the wicks you described work because they are in direct contact with the moisture. I've had a control for my backhoe freeze but after running the machine for a while it warmed up the valve and then worked fine. No signs at all of water in the hyd. oil. I think you just need to let your hyd. oil and tractor warm up more. If you start it up and drive it outside to use right away might be causing all your problems. I doubt your sock idea will make any difference. You sure don't want your sock or shammy to deteriorate and get in the hydraulic system. Then you'd have bigger problems. Dave
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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