If the reservoir also supplies the hydrostat pumps, that's a potential way to damage them as well as the hyd. pump and they aren't cheap. Once the oil level was getting near the bottom, you would probaly get some cavitation(air) in the lines and that can damage pumps and other components. I'd loosen the suction line like the manual says to eliminate any chance of damaging the hydraulics or what I did to drain most of the oil from my Cat was buy a cheap($20) rotary barrel pump and a piece of thicker wall rubber hose(so it wouldn't collapse) to fit on the suction side. I stuck the hose in the filler and pumped about 90% of the oil out. I used the drain for the last little bit but it's kind of awkward right above the track. If there's a plate to get inside the reservoir to the suction strainers, you could take that off and either weld a fitting for a drain on it, or at the bottom of the reservoir. Of course this is if you have a steel tank. Being able to access the inside of tank would allow you to clean out any metal shavings from drilling a hole for a drain. My manual says to change the hyd. oil every 1000 hrs. It would be a real pain without a drain. Dave
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Today's Featured Article - Trenching With a Plow - by Staff. Introduction: This interesting information came from one of the discussion forums here at YT. We thought we should place it up front so it could be read by anyone interested in putting old iron to work. [Editor] I tried something new today, and it worked so well I thought I should post it - in case it might help someone else. I'm running 100 yards of 4" drain pipe from the gutter downspouts of our house to a pond down the hill. This should hel
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