Re: Do I dare run it

Posted by Hurst on March 01, 2010 at 16:27:55 from (76.124.106.94):

In Reply to: Do I dare run it posted by timis on March 01, 2010 at 09:27:09:

I just OHed my 7000 for the exact same reason. However, my oil was coming from one of the copper injector sleeves in the cylinder head. Got it replaced and overhauled the rest of the engine and head and it runs great. Get the head pressure checked, as those copper sleeves could be giving you a problem. Some people say replace them all while you have it apart, but I just did the one that was leaking. They are around 70 a piece for the sleeve from AGCO, but I think Hy-Cap sells them for quite a bit less.

As far as driving it, I would pull the drain plug and see how fast the coolant is seeping past the o rings. It could be coming from a hole in one of the sleeves or the head like I talked about on mine. I had a lot of cavitation on my tractor's sleeves and also in the lower bores. If it's not leaking too bad, I'd go on and put fresh oil in there and keep a close eye on the temp gauge, stop ever 15 minutes or so to loosen the drain plug and drain off any water and keep going.

When you get to overhauling the engine, you will probably find your lower block bores are pretty badly pitted. There are two ways to fix this. One way is to get a machine shop to bore the lower block bore out and then sleeve it, but this is pretty expensive and hard for most machine shops to do, as the sleeve has to be deformed to get past the upper bore, then restraightened and pressed in. The other option is the use JB weld and fill in the pits, as all you need is a good smooth surface for the o rings to sit on. Also, use vegetable oil to lubricate the o rings and bores when you put them in. The engine uses an upper silicone and a lower Buna o ring, and if you use motor oil, you can get swelling of the silicone and actually seize the motor up from the slight pressure due to the tolerances of the piston (had an old AC tech tell me about one that did this). Another important thing is the CLEAN THE LIVING DAYLIGHTS OUT OF THE BORES! I am pretty sure I spent as much time cleaning the bores with a wire brush, engine hone, emory cloth, sand paper, and about 10 cans of brake parts cleaner than I spent putting the engine back together. The sleeves should drop right in without any pressure, and you should be able to spin the sleeve just by making a fist inside of it and turning your wrist (and you should hear metal on metal contact as it spins pretty effortlessly). The reason it took so long for me to get it this way was partly due to the JB weld. You apply it to the lower bores, then you use a file to sand it down roughly, then course emory cloth, then finer emory cloth. I also found an engine hone handy, but it ruins the stones when you use it in the lower bores to smooth out the JB weld. Feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions. I still have a pretty fresh memory from this summer on the OH.

Hurst

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