I'm not sure exactly what you mean by not having a riser around the pipe. I take it to mean that there is just a pipe nipple above the concrete. Regardless, it doesnt change my suggestion. My bias is toward the Ritchie energy free waterers when connected to a municipal water system. If you need a hole to get the tube below grade then a few minutes with a rental jackhammer would get you the hole.
I've used Mirafount, Universal Co-op, Ritchie, and a host of concrete versions. For me, the Ritchies have been the easiest to install and the most trouble free to operate. I've got 6 at one farm and just signed up for EQIP for 7 more at the other farm, plus 3 concrete tanks for continuous flow off a spring.
I use a piece of 12 inch plastic culvert pipe instead of their 60 dollar earth tube and then their flex pipe comes up to the valve. My line according the water company is 30 inches deep and Id never admit that I would ever only run one 24 inches. Culvert pipe is cut flush to the top of the slab. I've had one Ritchie freeze in 10 years, it was right in the very top of the valve and it had sat with no livestock on it for 20 days of below freezing temps. Took 5 minutes to thaw the valve. The UC tanks I've got freeze there at least once a week in the valve. Thats why I moved them to a lot I dont typically use in winter.
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Today's Featured Article - Listening to Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. Years ago there was a TV show about a talking car. Unless you are from another planet, physically or otherwise, I don’t think our internal combustion buddies will talk and tell us their problems. But, on the other hand, there is a secret language that our mechanical companions readily do speak. It is an interesting form of communication that involves all the senses of the listener. In this series we are going to investigate and learn the basic rudimentary skills of understanding this lingo.
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