Hi Virgil If you were chisling in the fall you would want to form high ridges and furrows parallel to the slope. these alternating furrows and ridges would control wind and water erosion until spring, and promote soil warming in the spring sun. If you were spring chiseling your main goal would be shattering the plow sole, and soil and organic mater mixing and leaving the ground as smoth as poaible, to reduce wear and tear on tractor, operator, and equipment. Shank tillage was developed to (1) reduce erosion, (2) break plow pan, improve water and root development (3) reduce soil compaction such as the trowling effect that a moldboard plow creats,and (4)improve tillage efficiency. 3" curved shovels improve soil/matter mixing plus they build bigger ridges and shatter more soil than straight points.Parabolic points are the best for breaking hard pan.They shatter the plow sole but don't bring up less fertil soil and mix it with the richer top soil. The speed that a shank tillage implement is pulled also affects sub soil shatter and soil tilth. If you are underpowered the shanks pull back and don't shatter the soil, too much speed and the points ride out and throw soil rather than mix it. 5MPH is a good speed in our soils. There is a lot more to working your soil properly than hooking on to your chisel and draging it through the ground.
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