There is no way for us to tell how it is set, but once you drop the plow int the ground, you may see that you need to adjust the rt side down on the first pass, to allow the front furrow slice to roll over properly.. ofcourse, if you are rolling the soil "out" toward a fence, you may not want to have that bottom in too deep.. If it to make a "Head-Land", you will want ti to turn a good slice.. I take it that you are turning down pasture..?? If the plow is rusty, take the time with an angle-grinder and cut-off wheels (held at a low angle) to clean the rust off.. You can clean it right down to the black-oxide under the rust and the plow will scour well.. For sod, Cover Boards are always good and MUST NOT be rusty either... Not much worse than trying to plow with a rusty plow...!! You can effect drainage by just how you decide to plow that piece, so look at it carefully. Depending on what equipment you have for tilling, you may want to plow the ends "in" toward the field, to eliminate an open furrow to work closed on each end.. If you can start in the Center of the field with a Head-Land, you may be able to plow the most of it and plow off the ends as you get to the last few rounds..assuming you have a mounted plow..
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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