With modern machine work, it was probably ready to work at less then 1000 miles. I'm not sure what you think (or was told) has to break in? Years back, break-in was mostly due to imperfections in the bore-job on the cylinder walls that needed to the rings and wall to wear a bit to "break-in." Not much of an issue anymore if the engine was actually new - and not some some cheap patch job. Is the new block OEM or the newere heavier blocks now being made? When in complete engines they are called "Optimizer 6500s."
One funny note. My friend bought a new Chevy Duramax during the first couple of years. He had been spoiled with his Dodge-Cummins getting 20 MPG. The new $60,000 Chevy with Allison trans never got better then 14 MPG empty and he was furious. He kept going back to the dealer and kept getting told it would need at least 20,000 miles to "break-in" properly. The truck now has 170,000 miles on it and never improved a bit. What a suprise. His old rusty Dodge still gets 20 MPG empty.
By the way, I'm curious. Did you buy one of the new heavy-duty blocks that are made now? Much heavier then the originals. Heavier heads, heavier block with a stronger alloy, and optional forged-steel crank. I'd love to have one but they cost a small fortune.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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