The codes are specing a minimum requirement, and that always makes me nervous. So in my (and son's) pole buildings, we drill with the 12" auger down to its max depth (about 42") and then finish out by hand. As we go deeper, we flare out the sides so we have about a 20" diameter circle, and then tamp and compact the bottom of the hole. The soil at the bottom is what is going to support the weight of the building, loft and contents (if any) and total snowload (huge numbers). The final depth at the bottom is about 60", and I pour well mixed concrete about 8" thick and smooth and tamp the concrete to get the air pockets out of it. I try to get the top surface of the concrete to be level and flat so the pole has good contact and is well supported. Then about 2 days later I set the poles, highly compacting the backfill soil. (Use some water to get it to compact, but don't make sloppy mud). Where I have open roof that can capture wind and possibly lift, I drill 3/4" holes through the pole near the bottom and bolt (2) 3x3x3/8" x18" angle irons near the bottom of the pole to prevent it from being pulled up in high gusts. Of course these extra details are far above the minimum code requirements, but I have never lost a building in 40 years, nor had any noteworthy damage. I have often been kidded about building to the "brick outhouse building code". I know it is more work and time, but very little extra $$ when it is your own building.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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