Sorry for the long post, no pun intended) You are probably shaking your had by now, but I will throw one more at you. 2 bags of sack creet in the bottom of hole. This dry powder will fill all voids,your post will have even pressure at the bottom as well. Cookies actualy don't if there is a high spot in one part of the hole. If you have sandy soil, it makes no differance, because the weight of the cookie will slam it down.
We then take a 1/2 in repar the size of the auger, and place it through a hole that is just a little bigger about 8" up from the bottom of the post. The larger hole (horizonal in the post) lets the rebar slide when positioning the post.
Now we dump in two more bags of powder. This will anchor the post down. I'm a guessing your hole is going to be to small, because you simply can not dig a perfect hole, that is why a bigger auger is a good idea. Just give it a trial try. If you dig four foot down, the top may be correct, but that bottom will usually be off, and now that means manual work. A shallow hole is totaly different.
A post in our area always rots where it makes ground contact, oxygen & moisture mix alot there.
If your soil has good drainage rock is ok, otherwise the in our area (clay soil) the water heads for the gravel, because the clay soil seals off water.
Now give this some thought, your poles are below frost, but what about the bottom skirt board, (usualy tounge and grove). The skirt board is nailed to the pole, and the frost will indeed raise the skirt board, if your soil has moisture in it. This usualy doesn't cause a problem however. Regardless what depth, make sure you are below the fill dirt. (We have some building sites that need six foot of fill in one corner to make the site level.
If you should ever have a pole settle, it isn't a big deal to fix. Dig a hole by hand right along side the post, just a little deeper. Lag a bracket to the pole, jack it up, then pour a very very wet sand mix a foot deep in your new hole, and viberate the concrete. It will fill the void under the post. I have never had to do this on any of my structures, but have fixed numerous compeditors buildings.
Some companies make a very large staple with a half inch rebar. It goes under the cookie, and then you drive bothe sides of the four foot staple into the post to anchor it down.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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