Its because the metal is more brittle.Farm machinery is also like that from the late 1970s or early 1980s.High carbon steel I seem to remember.
Also welders have told me about the cracking and grinding and welding it back and Ive done it too.Also the higher strength rod is not going to help if its also low hydrogen,it will crack just as bad.
I have welded a lot on trailers and truck frames and farm machinery and stuff and you can weld it with 7018,but MIG works better.For some reason MIG stands up better for that kind of metal.
Also it will help it if you weld it as cool as you can,not burning it in.I learned from other welders showing me this stuff over years of working on trucks mostly.
What you say about undercut is true,but in this case 7018 is not so much undercutting as it is that the metal is stiff and something about the mixture makes it real hard with more heat and thats what makes it break easier.Thats what they told me and Ive seen it proved to me that was true.
Believe me its a pain to roll a big MIG around through a maze of air lines and broke down trucks to weld a 4 inch weld on something,but knowing it would last better than using the buzz box many times I have done it.Its a pain to weld with a MIG if you dont know how,and its also not easy to get where you need it,but everything on a truck that you can weld with it,its better to use a MIG on it,especially thinner metal.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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