I know it is not overcharged - I measured carefully. I also know the condensor is not plugged; it is brand new. As to oil capacity? I just put in a brand new compressor, drier, condensor, expansion valve, and all new lines. The only old part remaining is the evaporator and I flushed it. Even if I hadn't, the evaporator can't retain much oil. So, with the newly added 5 ounces of PAG oil, it's not going to be over-full.
I agree, that trying to guess at oil content is often difficult, but not in this case.
As to common leaks? When I lived further south, the compressor shaft-seal was the most common problem. Here in heavily salted New York? The condensors rot out something terrible from road salt. I've had two condensors rot out in my 98 Kia Sportage. Also had to replace the condensors in all our Subarus at least once. Same for all my GM trucks. In fact, on my 87 Suburban, I've replaced the condensor twice, and also gave up on the long aluminum lines to the rear AC. After they got rot-holes twice, I made 16 foot long rubber AC hoses to the rear. I used to think aluminum held up better then steel with road-salt. Boy was I wrong.
Funny thing is, my 1979 Datsun 280ZX has AC that still works great. Still has the original factory fill of R12. Same for my 1994 Ford F-250 diesel. But neither of those rigs ever get driven in the winter.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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