With baler not hooked to tractor, support the pto shaft so it will turn (and not kink) as you turn the flywheel by hand- make sure the plunger "plunges" and pickup turns like they're supposed to.
Then get someone else to turn the flywheel while you trip the knotter bar (at the star wheel on top of the bale chamber) in the rear. Watch the needles as they go through the knotting cycle (no twine or hay in the thing yet, of course)- the eyes of the needles should be very near the bill hook at their furthest upward travel, then go back down to resting position, without the plunger hitting them. Meanwhile, the billhooks should be going through their normal gymnastics. It will be harder to turn the flywheel during the knotting cycle, but not extremely so. If you come up to a "stop" condition in the turning of the flywheel, nudge it a little, back and forth, but don't force it- try to figure out what's froze up and free it rather than break it.
If everything is good so far, hook it up to a tractor and engage the PTO slowly, at idle. Let it run a bit, to get the grease spread around. If all is still well, load with twine, and feed it hay until it goes through a tying cycle. If it won't tie correctly, wait for the manual you ordered to arrive, and start going through it.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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