I used one for years, and always used a very long stout screwdriver to pop it off. To get it back on is a bit more difficult as it likes to slide away from the top of the ball. Thus I made up a hard wood 2x4 with a bit of a dent in the end,,,centered it on top, then drove it down,,and onto the ball,,with a hammer. Once you get the knack, it works fairly well.
Now mine, and I presume yours too, has a spring loaded wedge that needs to be pushed back,,,to release the clamping effect of the two metal side plates that attach to the end of the pitment stick. The big screw driver,,helps force the wedge back,,and load the spring up.
Actually, I had more trouble every time I hit an ant hill on the outer end of the cycle bar,,,and the unit came un-latched and swung back,,,dropping slightly. Then when I backed up, to re-snap it into position,,,it wanted to bind up. I resolved the problem by carrying an old car bunper jack to lift the side up a bit.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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