This is a 3 tab shingle roof. No ridge vent. Just has the 1 tab of a shingle nailed over the ridge area type of roof. Shingles were installed by professional roofers about 10 yrs ago. House has soffit vents but suspect they do not work very good in this area because the ceiling is cathedral style in this end of the house.
Got up on the roof but did not see any problems. Soaked the area for about a hour with the garden hose but could not find a leak. Then took off a few pieces of the soffit siding and felt the wood under the fascia siding and all was still dry.
The bath room door is just outside of both these bedroom doors. That puts this exterior wall about 12 ft from a water source. Dryer is in a detached laundry room so the only water source in the house is the kitchen and bath. Did notice when they put in the add on central air and heat the vents were installed in the wall just above the doors. This puts them about 12 ft from this wall but they do blow right at this south facing exterior wall.
Really think this might be a combo condensation problem and the more I think about it the central A/C installer may have caused some of the problem. This end of the house faces south. A/C vents are across the room but blow at this wall. The problem is right at the highest part of the cathedral ceiling and the air flow is restricted in this area by some cabinets that were installed very close to this corner. A/C air inlet filter is in hall just across from the bath room door.
I am going to leave this area open as long as I can and repair it last to make sure there is no leaks from the outside. Move the cabinets in the corner to a different spot to open up better air flow in this area. Going to install a exhaust fan vented to the outside in the bathroom and wire it to where the fan comes on when ever the light is on to reduce moisture in the house. And my sister is calling a roofer Monday morning to get a second opinion on the exterior condition of the house just in case I missed something.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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