My work ride ia a '97 Pontiac Sunfire coupe with the 2.2 liter 4-banger and the 5-speed... and 123,000 miles on it. I finally had to do a 4-wheel brake job at 119,000 miles, and over the past couple of years I've put 4 new tires on it...first major stuff since we bought it used with 30-some-thousand miles in 2001. The last few tanks of fuel have averaged 33-36 MPG on the cheap stuff, so I really can't afford to "move up" in vehicle. The A/C quit working a few years ago, but at highway speeds it's really not so bad.
NOW...if I was to fix everything that's soon going to need fixing, and do most of the labor myself, I'd be puting well over $1000 into what's STILL gonna only be about an $800-1200 car AFTER I've spent that money. But where am I gonna get a more economical ride,either for that $1000, or for that $1000 plus the trade-in value...that won't STILL need the work I'm gonna have to do on this one anyway?
The way I see it, at the current mileage, I'm due to replace the ORIGINAL clutch [including replacing the release bearing and resurfacing the flywheel], the ORIGINAL CV axles, the ORIGINAL timing chain, the ORIGINAL serpentine belt, and all 4 ORIGINAL struts...not to mention the ORIGINAL behind-the-cat section of the exhaust. Throw in maybe a couple of ORIGINAL lower control arms and ball joints, and even if I buy all the stuff at Rock Auto, I'm simply NOT gonna escape for under a grand...if I should get THAT lucky.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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