Pretty much it the right engine for the application. You get a longer lasting, more efficient, higher torque at a lower RPM engine.
We have a Farmall Super M and a Kubota that are roughly the same HP. The SM will drink gas compared to the Kubota with it's Diesel engine. Diesels are not as easy to work on IMHO where as a gas engine is pretty simple for most shade tree mechanics to tinker with. The principal is simple, but you need more specialized tools and some of the stuff you simply have to send out to be fixed (pumps, injectors etc). Obviously this is all comparing diesels to older carburetor gas tractors, I'm sure if they still made gas tractors they would be more complex these days.
That being said on the smaller tractors I don't see that big a difference. My Farmall A & BN can be worked hard all day and be pretty darn easy on gas. Then again that what happens when your max RPM is 1450.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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