Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
 
Marketplace
Classified Ads
Photo Ads
Tractor Parts
Salvage

Community
Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Your Stories
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Galleries
Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Articles
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs
Glossary

Miscellaneous
Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

  
Tractor Talk Discussion Board

Re: tractor pull


[ Expand ] [ View Replies ] [ Add a Reply ] [ Return to Forum ]

Posted by Pete76NY on July 27, 2010 at 23:08:35 from (66.194.51.233):

In Reply to: tractor pull posted by c-man on July 27, 2010 at 20:00:17:

c-man...the info I am going to give you is based strictly upon my experience in "strictly stock" and Division I NATPA pulls (no performance mods, no hanging or suitcase weights, only stock wheel weights in stock locations.)
Our Super C is bar none my favorite tractor to take to a pull; you have a chance to be competitive or win (unless someone shows with a good Ollie Super 66) in more weight classes than you would think. I start ours at #3000 (ours has fast hitch which if you have also they will probably make you lock in place...talk on that later,) and while it is competitive at this weight it usally gets beat by a straight C with no Fast Hitch as this allows them to have some wheel weights on, thus putting the weight in a slightly more useable position. At #3500 with some weights on it gets much more competitive and as you add weights and hit #4000 and #4500 that"s where they really excel! At #5000 you will see the Super Hs get a little weight added and they start to come on (the only straight H that should be able to beat you if it is truly stock at any weight is one that has the "creeper" 1st gear,) but I pull ours as far up as #5500...you will be competitive and under the right conditions can occasionally steal one at that weight.
2nd gear is a tad tall, but I use it in the #3000 class as I will spin out long before I power out with no weights on...1st gear in all other classes.
We run 12.4 x 36 6 ply Coops that are old and hard, usually around 4-6 psi depending upon the track condition (of course if your tires are loaded it changes things a tad.)
We use threaded rod in the holes in the wheel center, bolted in so that you have 6-8" on the inside to bolt half weights on, and about 20" on the out side to slide full weights on (to get up to #5500 you"ll have quite a few weights sticking out!)
The other thing we have done that sounds like it stretches the rules a bit, but stays within them is built a small adapter bracket that slides over 2 of the rods on the outside and allows you to mount a set of front weights on the rear, this allows you to adjust down in even smaller weight increments.
Usually I have found that the front weights mounted in the front cause it to be too head heavy and prevent good weight transfer, although I do run them at #5500.
Make sure your governor spring and bumper spring are in good shape and stiff ( a tad stronger governor spring never hurt anything, just be careful if you are being tached @ weigh in!) A properly functioning Super C governor is VERY fast to come up, so use your throttle as you bog, don"t just throw it all the way forward and go cuz you"ll spin out alot sooner...keep the RPMs up high at first for speed and momentum, then when you feel the governor start to kick in, drop your RPMs as low as possible and keep working your throttle and brakes. Remember a C is light enough that if you have any weight to you, leaning backward and shifting your weight side to side when you start to spin can affect things enough to help sometimes!
As far as locking the Fast Hitch...most places will allow you to simply disconnect the lift lever at the pin on the light bar, but as you ad weight, and play with psi you will lose/gain drawbar height and it is tough to adjust it that way. I simply cap off the hydraulic lines where they screw into the cylinder and install a manual ratcheting turnbuckle type cylinder like they use on tow behind rotary cutters...that way you can jump off while you are on the scale and infinitely adjust the height to be right on the money.
Another thing that helps is to use large washers above and below the drawbar over the drawpin in between the clevis jaws...this allows you to measure to the center of the clevis, and it keeps the clevis from dropping down under load and lowering your hook height.
As you can see, you hit one of my favorite things to talk about: pulling with a Super C! Untill I find an Oliver Super 66 I can afford, the Super C will remain my favorite puller!
Have fun and good luck! Pete


Replies:




Add a Reply

:
:
:

:

:

:

:

:

:

Advanced Posting Options

: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks.



 
Advanced Posting Tools
  Upload Photo  Select Gallery Photo  Attach Serial # List 
Return to Post 

TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Today's Featured Article - A Lifetime of Farm Machinery - by Joe Michaels. I am a mechanical engineer by profession, specializing in powerplant work. I worked as a machinist and engine erector, with time spent overseas. I have always had a love for machinery, and an appreciation for farming and farm machinery. I was born and raised in Brooklyn, New York. Not a place one would associate with farms or farm machinery. I credit my parents for instilling a lot of good values, a respect for learning, a knowledge of various skills and a little knowledge of farming in me, amo ... [Read Article]

Latest Ad: 1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952 [More Ads]

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy