If you pulled the grills and checked behind them and all is clear, and if it has shutters and you made sure that they were open, then I would say that either your radiator is plugged up, your water pump isn't working properly, or your timing is off. Unless you have put in a new rad core in the last year or so, it would be wise to take it in to a rad shop and get it cleaned out. If it is the original core, you might get to replace it after the cleaning, though. Be sure that the belt is tight on the water pump. I've known a couple of tractors that the impeller came loose from the shaft and wasn't circulating the water like it should. It will take some detective work, but there isn't much that could make it run hot. Just check one thing at a time until you come across the culprit. The only other thing I can think of is that if an engine is ran lean, it will run hot. Are you running the tractor on vapor or are you switching to liquid after the engine warms up and under load?? Just making guesses now.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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