I have had no problems switching. I get NAPA (Ashland) synthetic pretty cheap with my discount. My "48 Desoto has 5W20, it called for straight 20 weight. The "50 Dodge and "56 Plymouth get 10W30, they call for 30 weight. All three are flatheads, DeSoto has 46k miles, the Dodge 96k, and the Plymouth is on it"s first synthetic after break in. I also switched a Diesel Mercedes with 240k miles to 5W40 Rotella Synthetic. The turbo seems to spool up better when the engine is not fully hot yet. I do not run long change intervals since as you noted, the price is so close to normal oil. I figure in the older engines without PCV that it is worth it, especially with town driving. I would recommend that if you have any leaks, fix them first. The Mercedes leaked the same after synthetic as it did before. The DeSoto had leaky pan gaskets that I replaced before switching. I cleaned out all the sludge at that time. Pulling the pan and removing sludge is a good idea before switching if you think it might be gunked up. Good chance to inspect inside and Plastigage the bearings.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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