The definitive way to pinpoint the problem is with a voltmeter. Put the negative lead of the meter on the negative post of the battery. Then scratch a bright spot on the frame of the starter and attach the positive lead of the meter here. Have someone attempt to crank the engine and you will read the total voltage drop in the ground circuit. Keep moving the negative lead back toward the starter. When the voltage drop goes away, the problem is between the lead and the negative post. For example, if the negative lead is on the engine block and the positive lead is on the starter frame and you don't get a reading, the problem is not corrosion between the starter frame and the block. Put the negative lead on the head of the bolt and if you get a reading the problem is corrosion in the bolt threads. This is unlikely. Stick a needle or pin in the cable and take a reading while cranking. If you get a reading the problem is where the copper is soldered to the connector.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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