My biggest concern would be the screen for the oil sump pickup. That gets clogged, no oil to anything. I'm not trying to scare you, but been there, done that. Scrapped a 427 Chevy that way. Crank, rods, cam, all let go because the oil flow stopped. When I opened it up and took it apart, metal flakes clogged the oil pump sump pickup screen. Even ended up with metal particles in the oil passages in the block. Scrap, scrap, scrap.
Of course though, I blew up a guy's fresh 402 because I gave him a cam from '65 through '68 BB without thinking about it, and the rear bearing and journal changed in '69 for BB oiling and his was a '70. Oops, that was a big mistake. He called me and asked if he could borrow a cam, and I GAVE him the cam for free fresh out of the box to get him going, he put it in, Zero pounds of oil pressure, and meltdown within minutes on its first run. As I helped him take it back out of his Chevelle and apart, a lightbulb went off...last journal changed in '69, don't interchange the cam with an earlier model unless solder the oiler shut in the rear bearing, and redrill to much smaller 3/16", or will lose all oil pressure...and that's what I forget to tell him to do. I never did tell him what happened, but I rebuilt it for him at cost, no labor, and used a correct cam and bearings.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
... [Read Article]
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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