Use care once baled, maybe loosen the tension on the chamber, ( loose bales ) if you can. I've had to deal with this scenario more than I'd like to remember, there seems to be a point where it will either dry, mold or even just sour a bit, I've never tried the salt routine, might be a solution.
I've baled fields that had moist soil, springs where it stays wet, 2nd cut that came in thick because it was fertilized after the 1st, even with plenty of sun, 70 deg temps and a breeze, down a week, tedded, still lost some really nice quality 2nd cut, this year would have been great for these fields, being so dry. Sometimes it just does not dry in time, and you can tell by checking those bales, seeing how much they weigh, which I have done by stacking behind the kicker.
You can try it, but stick a hand in those bales, look, smell, what have you. I've had some luck feeding it out quickly but it seems to turn fast. Small stack, lots of air circulating may help, cut ends up. Our barn needs roof work and I am constantly dealing with moldy hay, it is a real pain in the @ss, we had 17 horses, but are down to 8 for the winter. Seems it won't mold in cold temps but for the most part I cannot stand dealing with moldy hay, paranoid about missing some and it getting into a stall, especially with hired help on the place, though the other person knows, one mistake and you can lose one.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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