Only if I knew there was plywood underneath, at least 5/8" thick, I had special screws (special coarse threads for plywood), and I was fastening the roofing the "old way" via the raised ribs. Putting screws through the raised ribs is not recommended anymore, but does keep the panels from distorting when on imperfect surfaces.
Most if not all the companies now recommend fastening on the flat areas below the raised ribs. You need to get screws tight enough to seal, and if the surface is even a little uneven, the metal distorts. So, going over shingles is a problem due to their inherent unevenness. If there is board sheaving underneath the shingles, you can hit a gap between boards, a rot spot, a knot, etc. and wind up with a hole in the metal and no place a screw will grab. Using 1" or 2" boards allow a sure place to grab and a good uniform surface the entire width.
I've done plenty of steel roofs over new plywood, which works fine. You still need a min. of 5/8" though, and the special screws made for it.
As far as old houses go, at least in my area of NY, very few have plywood sheaving. It's usually poor quality, rough-cut 1" pine or hemlock boards (5/4) and lots of gaps between them, and many loose knots and rot-holes.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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