I have 250 miles of hiking in the canyon with permits in the back country. I will give three recommendations: If you are fit it is a wonderful hike down Bright Angle trail to Indian Gardens. It is about half way down the canyon, and on well traveled trail. Beautiful, and you wold need to have broken in supportive hiking boots, food for at least 2.5 trail meals, with protein in it. Trail mix, and one gallon of water each. (I am serious) You will also need Dr. Scholl's Mole skin. (foot patches to cover hot spots before they blister. This trip is about as aggressive as a novice can be happy doing, if they are fit, and if they are used to walking 5 miles. Walk modestly, do not hurry either going down, or up. Pace yourself such that you can breath without stopping to catch up with air. To do it this time of year, 5 layers of thinner clothing to make warm at many temps is good advice. Drink the water all along you should come out with none left, having put down the last about 200' blow the rim. It will be necessary to start the hike no later than 7:30 AM to be friendly and not hurried. The rim is above 7000' altitude, and if you are a flat lander, it will be serious breathing difficulty.
To see wider open spaces, the beauty, and less traffic, a different trip is all the way to dripping springs trail to dripping springs. All above rules apply.
Staying on top looking down just go to most of the look overs along the park road.
The north rim is harder to get to, but is more scenic (if possible).
The road from the east end of the grand canyon park to flagstaff through the Little Colorado river valley is extra fine. It would be mostly a car thing, but is what you expect from seeing the movie CARS.
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