I can't tell from the photo exactly how the water circulates. Thermoshiphon or electric pump?
I've never tried to use a wood stove or furnace for hot-water baseboard heat - so I can't give answer based on any first-hand experience. People that have tried it, had to install a circulator pump and not rely on thermo-siphon. I know several people that used a 400 or 500 to heat baseboard in one small room somewhere - but never an entire house. The coils don't have the capacity - as least not the ones Thermocontrol used.
We installed many Thermocontrol 400s and 500s with coils for domestic hot water only. That works great, if set up properly. It's how I heat all our hot water.
Generally speaking though . . . it goes like this. At the least - your wood furnace has to heat enough hot water to keep up with the heat-exchange at the baseboard units. Most Thermo-control hookups were done so with the thermo-siphon method. Thermo-siphon works great with domestic hot water, but not well with baseboard heat. The water moves too slow. That is likely to require a circulator pump and aquastat between the stove-coils and storage tank.
My wood furnace has a coil that is U-shaped, around 48" total length. 24" one way to the U and 24" back out. It is hooked to an 80 gallon vertical storage tank. It would easily heat to 180 F if I let it. But, keep in mind that it sits often without being used since it's domestic hot water- and not hot-water heat. Thermo-siphon, to work best, needs a check-valve at the inlet where the cold water comes into the furnace. Also needs an automatic vent on top. My tank also have the TPI valve, and a thermal regulating valve on the outlet. That is a must - especially if hooked in series with another heater. My 80 gallon hot-water storage tank is hooked in series with a 40 gallon propane hot water heater. In the winter, the propane never fires and it just acts as more storage. But. . . propane-fueled hot water heaters will get destroyed if the water coming into them is TOO hot. The one-time thermal-fuse will blow. So, the incoming water must be kept down to a certain temp.
I could be wrong, but I suspect the 400 isn't up to the task of making hot water to heat an entire house. If you added coils, and a circulator, and ran it super hot - the stove would probably burn out. I've had to repair many that burnt out the steel baffles, warped, etc.
One note. Thermocontrol - to a degree - is still in business. They cannot legally sell the big units as "woodstoves" anymore. So, last I spoke to them, they were trying to market them as indoor, or outdoor "furnaces" and put more coils into them. I'm not sure how far they got on that project.
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