I always well least now do, replace the water pump, all the coolant hoses and heater control valve iff'in it has one,,, that lets me drain most of the coolant out,,, I go back with universal Gold,,, I buy it in bulk 50/50 mix....
I had a suburban that he ran hot shortly after I did the intake,,, killed the engine,,, Now, I had my hands all over that pump,,, should have knocked it off,,, the cost of a pump cost him $4500...
I have had Surburbans/taho's and such that shortly after a intake replacement the plastic heater valve feel apart are a hose went to leak'n,,, If the customer declines any of this I write a disclaimer on the invoice,,, Warranty only covers new parts I replaced...
If you reuse a old hose that had the continuous compression clamp they can B a bugger to reseal,,, none of the aftermarket hoses fit well,,, none....
I pick up the phone and order OEM hoses,,, folks squeal but that is the way it is...
If you have not put a radiator in it you soon will,,, more plastic 8) it seams if you fix one leak the next weakest link will go to leak'n... This is not a GM thang its across the board....
The most common leak is were a repair has not long been done,,, it will puke coolant during the warm up cycle then not leak another drop,,, its seams to always B that a old hose was used and leaks at the connection no matter what type of clap is used... Long winded I know but its not as EZ as it looks...
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Today's Featured Article - Women and Tractors - More Views From the Farmer's Wife - by Teri Burkholder. The top ten reasons why the judges wouldn't let you participate in the stock antique tractor pull: Hey, this is stock! It came with that V8 in it! That "R" on my tires stands for "really old" not radial! Blue gas? We thought it was a pretty color! What wire hooked to my throttle?
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