Looks to me like a lot of work and danger to life and limb to shovel that off. If you heat it, then heat it long enough so all the snow melts and you don't get a layer of ice between the snow and roof although the sun will do the same thing and then it refreezes at night. Exposed screw heads will make it a pain to shovel and won't help ice slide.
The discolored nail heads looks like standard rust from condensation on the nail heads. May not be indicative of the entire nail rusted but... They probably didn't use galvanized nails but those leave a stain as well. The discoloration of the 2 bys appears to be staining from condensation dripping on them from the roof. May or may not be a problem without tapping on them with a hammer to see if they are rotted or not.
Big knot in one pole doesn't look good. What I would do is get some 3/8" lag bolts and put in two per pole at the beams equidistant. Use a drill and check your cuttings for good or rotted wood, particularly the poles. Any weak or rotten 2 bys can be replaced or I'd probably just sister in another on top and tack it good with a nail gun.
As old as it is, I'd be more worried about the posts being rotted just below ground level. Dig a few out and check them. Particularly where water may sit. They can rot inside the concrete around them. Individual posts can be replaced with laminated treated 2bys. Plenty of info in the archives on how to do that.
Really boils down to the type of snow as well. If you can pack it and make snowballs and snowmen, then it is wet and heavy. If not, then it is the light stuff. Suppose you could cut a sq. ft. of it and put in a bucket to get a weight on your bathroom scale. Maybe a little more scientific so you have a number to use with all these other live and dead load numbers being tossed around. Let us know if you do and how deep it is. Good luck. I think you are all right but never say never as they didn't say at the metrodome.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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