To remove it you remove one bolt on each mounting bracket just in front of the operator platform. After removing the two bolts you use the hydraulics to tilt it and back away from it. You then uncouple the four hydraulic lines.
Maybe two minutes for removal as I generally use an adjustable end wrench to remove the bolts instead of a socket and ratchet.
To attach drive close to the unit and reconnect the four hydraulic lines. Drive forward and use the hydraulics to tilt the frame until it catches on the guides. Continue tilting and driving forward until the loader is back in position and then secure it with the two bolts.
Takes longer to put on than take off as I always thoroughly clean the hydraulic fittings. They are color coded for easy match up.
Less than five minutes back on, perhaps really 2-3 if I haven"t gotten the fittings dirty.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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