Alright I am a Cummins mechanic.You dont need to worry about timing THE COMPRESSOR unless its a one cylinder compressor then you should time it.It tells you in NCWaynes post.If you are removing the ACCESSORY DRIVE with the compressor because you cant get the back bolt out,they make a wrench for that.If you do remove the acccessory drive,you have to time the accessory drive to the marks on the cam gear,like it says in NCWaynes post.You turn the engine and align the timing mark where it says by the pointer on the front cover to the right place on the accessory drive pulley,which is also where you turn the engine over with a socket or a turning tool on the accessory drive pulley. IF YOU TAKE THE ACCESSORY DRIVE OFF OF THE ENGINE IT HAS TO BE TIMED.THERE IS A PLUG IN THE FRONT COVER BEHIND THE ACCESSORY DRIVE PULLEY.TAKE THE PLUG OUT,TURN THE ENGINE UNTIL THE TIMING MARKS LINE UP LIKE IT SAYS IN NCWaynes post by looking though the hole where the plug was in the front cover.Thats after you get the pulley(which you need a puller for) off and the plug out of the front cover.Then you will have to turn the engine some way,probably with a helper on the crankshaft and you watching through the hole until you see the punch marks on the accessory drive line up between the two lines on the cam gear,then take the several bolts out that hold the accessory drive to the engine and pull the whole thing,accessory drive,air compressor,fuel pump off at one time after unhooking all of the lines and brackets from the air compressor and fuel pump.Then you can replace the air compressor and fix the accessory drive on your work bench if needed.Then put it back together making sure to get the two dots between the two lines looking through the hole in the front cover.I always painted a line on my gear where the center punch marks were with white out or something so it was easier to see because the shop I worked in had no windows and was dark all the time. Its hard to get to that back bolt on the compressor if you dont have a bent 5/8ths wrench,called an obstruction wrench or starter wrench,its real hard.You can buy a wrench from Snap On made for that,or make a wrench by heating up a long 5/8ths and bending it to a u shape.Then its a lot easier to get that back bolt out.If it had a bracket on there to hold the back of the compressor,put it back on because it will help hold it on there.All of that stuff together is kinda heavy and that bracket helps support it. If you leave the accessory drive on the engine,you only have to take 4 bolts out of the compressor and replace it.THAT INCLUDES THE VERY HARD TO GET BACK BOLT that you need a bent wrench for. If this isnt enough,ask more questions and Ill answer if I see any.There is a coupler with teeth in it that has to go between the compressor and the accessory drive.Plus there is a rubber piece that goes between the fuel pump and the end of the air compressor.Old as that truck is the rubber thing could have broke and fell out years ago and now might have the piece on the fuel pump wore out.Just a possibility.Newer drive pieces are made of something stronger and it could have been changed.That piece is not very expensive and needs to be replaced especially if its an old rubber type.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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