Id probably use 8 Gauge from the alternator output to the ammeters LOAD TERMINAL and from the ammeters other SUPPLY TERMINAL to the battery. Theres only one wire on the SUPPLY thats to the battery while the LOAd is where the alternators output wires along with feeds to loads like lights and ignition.
Often when lay persons consult a wire gauges ampacity chart they look at enclosed conductor ratings versus single conductors in free air which can carry more current. A person could even run 6 gauge while 10 probably still wouldnt overheat so bad the insulation is damaged. It dont hurt to use overkill in bigger wire as it reduces voltage drop.
A typical place for attaCHMENT IS WHERE THE BIG BATTERY CABLE ATATCHES TO A STARTER SWITCH OR SOLENOID as a huge cables goes from there right to the battery.
The alternators output is where the highest current flows so Id run 8 gauge from the alternator output to the Load (NOT battery) side of the ammeter and then from the Supply side of the ammeter to the starter post.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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