1 - Your gage wiring sounds right (at least I'd wire it up the same way you did...)
2 - If you disconnect the wire at the sender and turn on the ignition the gage should read "E". If it still pegs at "F", the wire between the gage and the sender has a short to ground.
3 - The gage sender works like a variable resistor exactly as you describe. You can quickly check the resistance of the sender with a multimeter. And the electrical manual for your machine should give the range of resistance readings (full and empty resistance) for a good sender. If you find the sender resistance is too low, it's time for a new sender!
4 - Most automotive gages are "voltage compensated". Ie the gage reading does not change with changes in system voltage. Typically a gage will remain accurate with system voltage anywhere between about 5 and 16 volts.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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