Okay most of what has been posted I understand is is useful. I am going to determine if I can which sending unit I have and will then see if the gauge is a match.
So if I understand the gauge/sender premise.... WITHOUT the sending unit in the equation, if I hook up the keyed ignition wire to I and a ground wire to G on the gauge only, the gauge should remain on empty (no sender in the cicuit...no resistance) ... and if I have a working sending unit that MATCHES the new gauge, the resistance of that sending unit will provide contolled grounding of the gauge moving the needle towards full (grounded).
Do I have that concept or are you shaking your head and hoping I keep a fire extinquisher in the shop? I thought it would be handy to at least check the mechanical to electronic aspect of the sending unit by using a small meter. Will the simple ohms test sending unit wire to ground reflect varying ohms depending on float level? Mine seems to go right to pegged continuity with some gas......If not, how would I check the sending unit? How do you measure the resistance? Perhaps my little multi tester is not up to it? Also wondering if that is the only way to determine the type I have as no numbers are evident.
Appreciate the help. It seems like a little thing but it is such a pain to move the machine into a spot get it working on a stump or hole and then run out of gas because I forgot to climb up and peer in. I WANT a gas gauge!
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Today's Featured Article - Listening to Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. Years ago there was a TV show about a talking car. Unless you are from another planet, physically or otherwise, I don’t think our internal combustion buddies will talk and tell us their problems. But, on the other hand, there is a secret language that our mechanical companions readily do speak. It is an interesting form of communication that involves all the senses of the listener. In this series we are going to investigate and learn the basic rudimentary skills of understanding this lingo.
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