Usually whenever a synthetic vs. dino oil debate comes up I specifically state to use a TRUE FULL synthetic such as Mobil 1 or Amsoil. I sell Amsoil so am partial to it. They do sell many different oils with different chemistrys. Their best oils are simply the best made. Maybe not by much nor in every single test and definately not in upfront price but where their best oil shines is the fact that it will last for at least 17.5/35k miles extreme/normal driving and 12.5/25k extreme/normal for diesel oil. In the end it is actually cheaper, wastes less oil, uses less filters and saves labor. So almost every time it is cheaper to use it and you do get better protection. Kinda like insurance, worthless until you need it. Now, Mobil 1 has a good synthetic oil, no arguing that but they don't sell a filter that lasts for the full 25k miles. Amsoil does. And just because an oil doesn't have an API rating doesn't mean it doesn't meet or exceed the specs. As someone else mentioned it costs money to get that approval. Amsoil passes the savings on to the users. Reminds me of an old joke: What do you call the doctor who graduated last in his class? A doctor! Any questions on Amsoil ask me.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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