Looks like an easy jack-job to me. An inch-and-a-half is near nothing. Hardly worth worrying about if the sill is still solid and the foundaton not sinking or cracked. I've had to jack up many large farm-houses built in the early 1800s -often off level by over two feet from one end to the other. Most were post and beam though, that makes jacking from the bottom a bit easier then frame-walls.
By the way, someone else mentioned capping your sill with aluminum. If you do, make sure your sill isn't made from any recent pressure-treated wood - because it will corrode aluminum something awful. Esecially if it's ACQ treated.
I suspect the main part of your house - since it's relatively modern - has a full basement with walls that go well down below the frost line.
On the other hand, the porch most likely does not - and was also built with a pitch with a slope when new to shed rain and snow away from the house. Porch foundations often sink unless they go below the frost line (and many do not).
I wouldn't be afraid to jack from the bottom, or make temp supports for the roof. Not an awful lot of weight there (on a relative scale). If you are dead set on contructing an entire new wall, holding the roof up on temp supports is the easiest way to go.
When you get done doing all that insulating, trapped moisture is going to be a concern. The tighter you make it, the more you need a good vapor barrier on the inside walls.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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