Id start by getting warmed up and checking injectors with the ohm meter.
Get you timing light out,, make sure the spout connector is pulled out and check the base timing with a light. It has to be set on 10 btc. set it then reinstall the spout connector.
This has to be set this way,,,, cant do it by ear.
You could have a vacuum leak,,, the guy who worked on it could have messed with the idle stop, which is a no no,,,, the IAC and the TPS will not record data correctly and it will cause it to do what you describe.
Ive had to get em warmed up and try to set the idle speed, then shut it off and start it to see if it idles around 800 rpm,,,, its a test and try proceedue.
Try this,, warm it up,, then set the idle speed up to about 1000 rpm on the tach (if it has one) and then shut it off, let it sit for 5 minutes then restart it. It will auto adjust the idle speed, you just have to keep doing that till it idles at correct speed. Then, if nothing else it wrong, the ecm can start to relearn to run the engine and smooth out the longer it runs.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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