In my opinion, your problem lies in the fact that you are using the tractor's rear remotes for your loader functions. Not only is it very ackward to use your loader in this fashion, but it almost always makes your loader's cylinders operate slowly, as well as it ties up your rear remotes, making the tractor's remote hydraulics "useless" when the loader is hooked up.
What I would have done is gotten a regular Cross brand, Prince brand, or Gresen brand 2-spool control valve (with float detent in the one spool for the loader mast) and installed it in the "standard position" off the right loader mast, above the right brake pedals within easy reach of your right hand.
You then plumb it directly into a hyd pressure port and a return to sump port of the hydraulic system, usually easiest on a Ford, right on the top rockshaft cover remote hydraulic valve body area. You could even plumb it into ONE of your rear hydraulic remotes, and then bungee the one lever that runs that particular valve under the seat into the pressure position. Oil would then flow through the tractor's rear remote control valve, through the rear remote coupler, and to the loader control valve and finally back to sump. It would work almost as well as a direct plumbing, but a little slower. As stated earlier, you would still be limited to the speed (flow) capability of your tractor's rear remote valve when plumbed that way, but at least you would still have ONE free pair of rear remotes for running accessories, such as your blower chute. By the way... by directly plumbing in a loader control valve, you'd have a pair or remotes (4 empty quick-connects at the rear of your tractor) available for other tasks.
The bummer is that if whomever installed the loader in the first place wasn't being a cheap-skate, then the loader would have had it's own control valve from the get-go and you would not have had any issues, as you'd have those 4 ports back there to choose from for operating your extras, such as your blower chute turning motor.
We have a Ford 5610 II (Basically a newer generation 5000) and it is plumbed exactly as I stated above. We have only on rear remote (2 quick-connects) on our tractor, so it only made sense to plumb the loader direct and have a remote loader control valve, which enables us to use the loader as well as any other rear mounted function through the tractor's rear remote pair as we choose at the same time without messing around with disconnecting and re-connecting hoses, disabling one attachment for another nonsense and such.
Good luck with your electric motor idea. Since you are swapping a very expensive and reliable hydraulic motor for a crummy unreliable electric motor, it's no wonder your dealer is more than willing to do a swap with you.
Go to Tractor Supply (or your local farm store or dealership) and buy yourself a nice new Cross 2-spool (2 lever) loader control valve (for open center hydraulic system) and a couple of hydraulic hoses. If you can weld up a bracket, drill 2 or 3 holes to mount the valve, and attach 2 hoses, you can install that loader control valve on your right loader mast and you will be much happier in the long run!
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