Posted by jackinok on February 07, 2011 at 11:02:26 from (162.58.82.136):
In Reply to: Work Shop posted by Danny Prosser on February 07, 2011 at 10:20:26:
generally you want your vapor barrier to the heated(or conditioned) side,normally the inside,of your building.Though many folks use house wrap on the outside under siding or brick, most of these products are breathable to allow moisture to evaporate.A barrier is just that,if you put a barrier over the metal outside, condensation will just build up on inside of it .This in turn will soak into your insulation,and you will have mold and rotting problems in your walls and ceiling over time since moisture cant escape.if you DO put something against tin , make sure its breathable to allow condensation to wick away.We used to use tar paper or roofing felt,contrary to most beliefs it is breathable .Vapor barrier is strictly to protect the INSULATION from moisture,since moisture causes it to lose its insulating values.As youve found out condensation will form on the warmer surface, if it cant get out ,your in reality better off with no vapor barrier at all.simple way to tell if you need vapor barrier, and where, is to watch where moisture forms ,if it forms inside ,moisture is coming from inside and thats where you need a barrier.if its forming outside,and some places it will,you need it outside.oddly you will find little about vapor barriers in most building codes (that ive seen anyway).tendancy is to not use any if not required so ive heard.and this may be your best bet .give the inside walls 3-4 coats of oil based paint and it will serve. .1/4"osb might not be thick enough for the ceiling,it will tend to bow and sag on you over time i would think just from its own weight.
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
... [Read Article]
Latest Ad:
1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
[More Ads]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.