MCL if you bought it 8 years ago it would be a 2003 model. At that time there were 2 types of controllers one has a pendulem and is supposed to sense the rate of deceleration the truck is performing and apply the trailer brakes accordingly. This type of controller MUST set almost level to work--remember it has a pendulem that has to work. The other type is time based. This means it senses when the brake lights go on and starts applying the brakes ramping up until they're on the maximum. These brakes can set at any angle. When you install them follow the direction they do get it right. There are 2 knobs one sets the balance and once it is set LEAVE IT ALONE. The other sets sensivity and is adjusted for loasd and different trailers. One more thing--when electric brake trailers set for awhile the brake drum gets a coating of rust. When the magnet pulls in it slips on this coating and doesn't apply the brakes very well. The brakes will work fine AFTER the rust is scrubed off. If you don't want to put up with that then get your wallet out and buy a conversion kit to electric over hydraulic brakes. Still rusts but you can clamp them down till the wheels lock up. Cost--the hydrc pump is about $660+ and the wheel conversion parts another $6-800. Total between $1200 and $1500. BTW my truck is a 2004 Silverado 2500HD with Duramax. Pulls like a son of a gun. One trailer is a 14' dump with electric brakes the other is a 20' flat bed with tandum duals 20,000 lb capacity with electric over hydraulic.
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Today's Featured Article - Good As New - by Bill Goodwin. In the summer of 1995, my father, Russ Goodwin, and I acquired the 1945 Farmall B that my grandfather used as an overseer on a farm in Waynesboro, Georgia. After my grandfather’s death in 1955, J.P. Rollins, son of the landowner, used the tractor. In the winter 1985, while in his possession the engine block cracked and was unrepairable. He had told my father
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