If thats the GM 10 SI self internally regulated family of 3 wire alternators
DO NOT USE THE OLD VOLTAGE REGULATOR WHATSOEVER.
The tractor MUST be used at Negative ground and heres how I describe wiring them.
The big rear main alternator output terminal goes to the wire that used to be connected to the BAT terminal on the Voltage Regulator or Cutout Relay. The alternator output wires to the Load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeter. HOWEVER if that wire wasnt already upgraded, when I convert from a Genny to an Alternator, I replace that wire with a 10 Gauge and it runs from the alternators main output up to the LOAD (NOT to battery/starter) side of the ammeter. I also replace/use 10 Gauge from the ammeters other SUPPLY terminal to the battery/starter.
The little side 2F Voltage Sense Terminal gets connected (use a short 14 jumper wire) right up to and with the big main output terminal mentioned above.
For the little 1R side Excitation Terminal, run a 16 or so gauge wire from the ignition switches IGN (which is hot ONLY when ignition is turned on) output terminal or the coils high input (NOT to distributor) terminal, and in series with it place a 10 to 15 ohm 5 watt or so current limiting protection resistor . Then in the rare event the tractor continues to run cuz of alternator backfeed when the ignition is switched OFF, I add in series a 5 amp 50 PIV minimum Diode. The diode must be wired with negative cathode end to the alternator and positive anode end to the switch. Again, the ratings are not that exact but about any diode over a few amps and 50 volts or so works. THE DIODES LIKELY NOT NEEDED IF YOU USE THE 10 TO 15 OHM RESISTOR
Dont forget to change the battery to negative ground and the coil needs to be wired so the negative goes to ground via the distributor points and the positive gets power from the ignition switch and you have to reverse ammeter leads also if you’re just now changing polarities.
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