As was said, 6011 are good for general tacking because they leave a concave or flat tack. They are also easy to restrike and you don't usually have to clean the slag off the tacks unless there's a a big blob of slag. For tacks that have to be twisted or hold a lot of stress 7018 should be used. Sometimes you can speed up just a little when going over larger tacks.
Your fitting looks excellent, everything looks nice and square. You might be burning too hot(145 is a little hot for 1/8" 7018) which is causing additional spatter. Your welds look pretty good with no undercut but there's a couple simple things you can do to make them look better. A DC machine would be huge advantage but you have what you have. You should you go backwards a little bit at the end of the welds to fill the crater in. A big concave crater, especially in a corner is good starting point for a crack to develop. On something you wanted real strong you could start at each end and leave the crater(s)in the middle of the weld. On a couple of your welds you missed the the very beginning. This could also be a starting point for cracks. The easiest way to solve this problem is to strike your arc ahead of the edge/beginning and once a steady arc is established, move the rod back to the front edge of the seam. It won't matter if there's an arc strike because you'll weld right over it 2 seconds later. For safety's sake don't be welding and especially don't do any grinding if there are any gas cans or equipment with a gas tank anywhere within 500 feet of you. This goes for any flammable materials. It looks like there's a snowblower, cardboard boxes and other easily ignited materials close to where you're working. One spark is all it takes.
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