I have to agree that that wiring on the tractor is going to need to be replaced. But at this stage in the game now is not the time. I wouldn't just start throwing money at something you really don't know the overall condition of. I'd unhook it ! Then just use my test leads I have made up with clips on the ends to get power from the battery to the coil. The battery ground cable should be hooked to the + post and then the dist. wire from the points should go to the + side of the coil. Then all you need is to hook a wire from the - battery post to the - side of the coil and then test for spark. All you have to do for a spark test is to get the dist. cam rotated to just before the points open,then just rotate the rotor enough by hand to open the points. When the power is hooked up you should get spark when the points open.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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