I consider myself the worse plower in the world, but I am trying to learn. Those rears look like 13? 14 x 24's? The furrow is less than a foot wide, 10 or 12" bottoms? So by its nature the tire is going to ride up on the turn, and cause of the wide rim on sorta industrial centers, it won't be inboard or outbord to the hitch the way a ...12 x 28 with old fashioned dish centers would work just like factory. The tires deep in the furrow, the right point exactly 12inches in.... just like the ol' days. Like the guys said, adjust the right linkage, and you have a crank on the plow? Does that change the angle? My AC snap hitch plow does that too, make some adjustments, plow a few yards, crank one or the other a couple turns, by the time the field is done, you will have it perfect! Here's a nerd trick. If you are trying for 8" deep, drive the left rear on an 8x12 block or two -my car ramps are 8"- on a driveway or clear flat spot, lower the plow and see if it is at an angle, it should sit flat on the driveway the way you want it flat in the furrows. You can adjust that crank and top link to not be pitched either. You do know one bottom plows make the job last 3 times longer? 3 times the fun....
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Today's Featured Article - The Ferguson System Principal An implement cutting through the soil at a certain depth say eight inches requires a certain force or draft to pull it. Obviously that draft will increase if the implement runs deeper than eight inches, and decrease if it runs shallower. Why not use that draft fact to control the depth of work automatically? The draft forces are
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