Posted by JDseller on April 12, 2011 at 22:26:13 from (208.126.196.144):
In Reply to: rear main seal?? posted by dave2 on April 12, 2011 at 10:14:29:
The rope type seals usually dripped a little. Your problem is more than likely the crankshaft main bearings. They are worn so the crank is moving more than the rope seal can adjust for.
A trick I have used for many years on rope seals. Remove the oil pan and rear main bearing cap.
Then you need to make a real simple tool. Take a six inch piece of 3/16 brake line. The center hole should be about 1/8. I then take a welding rod that the steel part will just fit through the brake line. Beat all of the flux off of it. You need it cut to a length that is the same as your brake line. You now have an installer for a shim wire to go between the block and the top rope seal. Take a piece of the larger electric fence wire ( any hard wire will work it just can"t be soft baling wire)cut it about an inch longer then your installation tool. Sharpen one end to a point. Take that wire and put it between the block and the rope seal( CAUTION NOT BETWEEN THE CRANKSHAFT AND THE ROPE SEAL !!!). Push it up to get it started. Then slide the tube over it. Take a small hammer and drive the wire in. When it gets flush you will then place the weld rod/driver in the tube to drive the wire the rest of the way around. Cut the ends to flush. Then install a new rope seal in the bottom cap. cut the ends a little long, that way when you tighten the main bearing cap it will seal the joint.
I used to have a factory tool like this to use on rope seals. Someone borrowed it and never returned it. So I just made one. I have done this repair on many old Fords and Ferguson"s. The old seal seems to seal real well once you get it tight against the crank. I have a Ford 961 that I did this on in 1981, it still is holding fine.
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